FITTING

WEEOOOO! WEEOOOO! WEEOOOO!  🚨

The tech police are in town and ready to arrest any specs that are out of tolerance!

JK!! But seriously though, the whole purpose of a fitting is to try on your samples and adjust where necessary and maybe even catch any “crimes” made by the factory in the process. This is when you finally get to see your idea come to life on an actual live form. Exciting right?! We fit using professional fit models to be able to transform the sample into a functional garment, so you can be one step closer to being production ready. At this point, tech and design come together to review and ultimately revise the sample.

While the designer handles the overall aesthetic and construction of the garment, the tech designer is really the one who starts getting their hands dirty to handle fit call-outs and, not to mention, cross-checking specs and measurements before a sample is even put on a body. Fittings can be tedious, but all-in-all they require a real team effort to fit, make corrections and revise techpacks. Want to know what goes into a fitting? Scroll down to see this week’s episode!

 

TECH DESIGN

Don’t you hate it when you go into a changing room at a store to try something on and it doesn’t fit?  Ugh.  Well, welcome to the club!

Unfortunately though, we can’t just blame this on the big birthday dinner we just ate!  When something doesn’t fit right, you risk facing disappointed customers and, more tangibly: returns, which is something that we want to avoid.  This is why it is soooo important to have a top notch Technical Designer on staff when launching your brand. The TD works closely with the creative director to build the foundation and FIT of your garment.  TD’s are the keepers of the specs and, while armed with fit comments, they go to battle with the factories to fight for your garments right to fit!  (Insert corny garment picket sign here!)

More than anything, fit is the most critical part of any successful collection out there, and it is the technical designer’s responsibility to establish, manage and maintain your specs and sizing.  As a wise sage once said, “No matter how pretty it is, or no matter how well priced it is …. If it don’t fit, you don’t got a business”  Scroll down to watch Episode 14 and learn all about the importance of the Technical Designer.

 

DESIGNER

Fashion design, it’s everybody’s dream job but we hate to break the news to you … this is not something that everyone is born knowing how to do.  It takes many years of training and working in the field to get to the point where you can actually call yourself a designer. (And a good one at that!)

So why do you need a designer?  Well, because you’re either an accountant, an engineer, a salesperson or a full time stay at home Mom, for example, and your professional background, while quite impressive, just won’t cut the mustard in getting a fashion line put together.  If it did, then for certain you wouldn’t be calling upon us!  (NB: For those of you who ARE seasoned designers and simply need a Product Development, Sourcing and Production team to manage your flow, well then, don’t count yourself out.  We welcome you too!)

Our designers are all are senior executive level industry veterans and have worked for some of fashion’s finest names.  They certainly have the creative tool box necessary to oversee the design process with you and your collection, and you can count on them to establish your “determining factor” or “why me” as you go on this exciting journey together.

Want to know what it takes? Scroll down to view Episode 13.

 

PROTO

The time has come to see your design come to life!  Yippeee!

A prototype, or, as we like to call it, a “proto”, is the point in the process when we really start to see how your product (that we have spent so much time designing, building and engineering), is going to perform on a human body.  During a proto review, we take the time to look at EVERYTHING; things like fit, construction, fabrication, trims, design details, seam finishing, and overall aesthetic.  It’s the first time we are seeing the garment in physical form so you can imagine that this is also a very tedious and time consuming part of the process (as are all aspects of the development and production cycle! Sigh…).

To be frank, this stage can be quite frustrating for a first-timer because a proto sample typically doesn’t look pretty or fit very well out right out of the gate. Remember our giving birth analogy from a few episodes ago? (Well, if you’ve ever seen a new born baby, you know what we’re talking about…lol!)  So set your expectations accordingly because it only goes up hill from here!

We still get excited over protos! Press play on Episode 12 to see why!

PATTERN MAKING

You often hear in the fashion industry that pattern making is a lost art, much like reading a map or spelling. (Seriously, right?) But the truth is that the pattern is the start of the real building phase and, much like an architect’s blueprint is to a home builder, a pattern maker’s blueprint is critical to achieving the proper fit of your garment. The pattern maker’s job is to convert a 2-D concept into a real-life 3-D garment. They do this by creating a pattern, or “blueprint”, using the information from your tech pack (i.e.: the bible). The sewer then uses this blueprint to cut & sew your garment. Hallelujah!

This week’s episode is a little longer than usual, but we hope it will answer all of your questions about pattern making. Scroll down to watch!

 

FACTORY ALLOCATION

Relationships … they are crucial to our well being as humans and they need to be nurtured.  It takes a lot of time and energy to get to a point where both parties in a relationship achieve a solid level of comfort and trust with each other.  Well, the same goes in business (#preach).

A good relationship with your supply chain will make all the difference to your product and, not to mention, your overall product development and production experience. You would never leave your child in the care of someone you didn’t fully trust, so imagine doing that with your business?!  A lot of consideration goes into the factory allocation process and we’ve spent 25 years cultivating relationships with partners all over the world so that you can feel at ease knowing your “kids” are being well taken care of.

Scroll down to learn more about the importance of factory relationships in this week’s episode!

TECHPACK

Question: How do you translate a 2-D design concept to a 3-D physical garment?

Answer: Have a kick-ass tech pack!

Without an iron clad tech pack, you’re going to have a really tough time navigating the murky waters of sample making and production with any factory you elect to do business with.  This “bible” of a document, if done correctly, will properly guide the patternmaker, factory, and sewer from A to Z with the least amount of drama.  (Can we get an Amen!!)  And believe us, there is a LOT of drama in this part of the process.  Just you wait!

But, we can mitigate that so called drama if you spend the time to build a proper tech pack. This is where we get to the number crunching and the technical nitty gritty. It may just look like a bunch of pretty sketches and charts of numbers to the untrained eye, but it is so much more than that … scroll down to learn why.

 

TRIM R&D

Trims … so small in size, yet so critical!  It’s really the trim that sets the tone on a finely tuned garment, however many designers like to leave trim sourcing and development until the very end of the production cycle and they wind up facing major fit and construction issues, and not to mention, delivery delays. Yikes!

Trims make your garment functional and help customers identify your brand, so you can see why these small components pack a big punch and should never be left to the last minute!

Scroll down to watch Episode 8 and see why size really does matter!

FABRIC R&D PART DEUX

We aren’t done with fabric just quite yet…

The fabric R&D phase is so important that we dedicated a second episode to it!  Scroll down to check out part 2.

 

FABRIC R&D

Fabric sourcing! It’s such an easy concept, so can it really be considered the most important part of building a garment?? I mean, just design a garment and choose a cool fabric to make it in right? Nope!! Choosing the right base cloth for a garment impacts everything from fit to cost to delivery, so, newsflash: Fabric R&D should never be taken lightly.

We’re not gonna lie to you: This process can be extremely tedious and frustrating and, oftentimes, is difficult for new brands to wrap their heads around from a technical perspective. But that’s why you’ve got us canvasing the fabric market for you (#punintended). It happens to be our favorite part of the production cycle, so scroll down to watch Episode 6 and find out why!